Confessions of a serial En Via tour participant

By Cynthia Hibbard

I was an eager, serial En Via tour participant - six villages in the greater Oaxaca Valley in three, consecutive trips.  If I'd had more than a few weeks in Oaxaca I would have gone more.  For travelers, En Via really is the most direct route into the authentic heart of indigenous, Oaxacan cultures and the experience it provides feels genuine and lasting.

Even though two of the trips stopped in the same village, each visit was unique because our destinations varied.  The En Via bus could be counted on to sail right past the usual tourist-bus destinations and deposit us at the homes of ordinary women struggling to start a rich variety of businesses.  They greeted us, sometimes fed us, demonstrated their businesses and wares and patiently answered all our curious questions. We met weavers, a butcher, organic farmers, hardware and variety store owners, a seamstress, a beauty salon owner, plus makers of chocolate, mole and soap.

Some of us bought their products, some of us not. But they were always as glad to see us and we were them because the fees from each of our our tours translated directly into micro-loans for their businesses.  And what they gave us - a sincere welcome into their lives - was priceless.

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By Cynithia Hibbard

I was an eager, serial En Via tour participant - six villages in the greater Oaxaca Valley in three, consecutive trips.  If I'd had more than a few weeks in Oaxaca I would have gone more.  For travelers, En Via really is the most direct route into the authentic heart of indigenous Oaxacan cultures and the experience it provides feels genuine and lasting.

Even though two of the trips stopped in the same village, each visit was unique because our destinations varied.  The En Via bus could be counted on to sail right past the usual tourist bus destinations and deposit us at the homes of ordinary women struggling to start a rich variety of businesses.  

They greeted us, sometimes fed us, demonstrated their businesses and wares and patiently answered all our curious questions. We met weavers, a butcher, organic farmers, hardware and variety store owners, a seamstress, a beauty salon owner, plus makers of chocolate, mole and soap. Some of us bought their products, some of us not. But they were always as glad to see us and we were them because the fees from each of our our tours translated directly into micro-loans for their businesses.  And what they gave us - a sincere welcome into their lives - was priceless.

Superwomen of En Via: Homemakers, Entrepreneurs, and Role Models

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BY CHARLOTTE NEWMAN

What plans do you have for tonight? What did you do last weekend? When is your next vacation?

 For most of us, these are questions we hear and ask quite frequently. We expect to discuss plans to go out after work, to travel, or to relax at home. We assume that at some point, everyone has a bit of free time to spend as they please. But for many of the women of En Via, this is simply not the case. If you were to ask one of these women about her plans for after work, you probably won't get the answer you were expecting.

 I'm constantly amazed by the discipline and work ethic that our borrowers possess. Over the last year and a half I've spent working with En Via, leading tours and teaching classes, so many women have expressed to me that their work never ends. The more I learn about their lives, the more I realize how true this really is.

Most of the women's businesses are extensions of their homes. The weavers in Teotitlán prepare their wool and make their rugs in the home, stopping only to make lunch or dinner for their family in the next room over. The leatherwork in Santo Domingo Tomaltepec is also done at home, and many women have comedores (small restaurants), or shops in the front room of their houses.

 

Many of us in the Western world enjoy the benefits of working from home, and even more probably wish that they could. But as most of us who have that opportunity soon discover, combining work and home life can be exhausting. We have to set boundaries and adhere to a schedule so we don't go crazy working too much (or working too little, whichever type you are!).

The women of En Via don't have these boundaries. For a woman that owns a shop, her lunch is interrupted if someone comes by for a box of milk. Even after closing hours someone may stop by and knock on the door, looking to buy something. When there is finally a break from work, there is the cooking, cleaning, and raising of the children to attend to. It is normal for women to wake up at four thirty or five in the morning to begin work, and it is commonplace for them not to stop until they go to bed.

The luxury of free time that most of us cherish so much, to read a book or watch TV, simply does not exist in these villages. We, the children of the nine to five workday, probably would not last a week with the workload of the women of Fundación En Via. And if we did, can you imagine the vacation we'd need afterward?

 I personally have two jobs that I'm able to do at home, and I'm fortunate in that it allows me to live comfortably in Oaxaca and still devote much of my time to En Via. However, I definitely fall into the category of people who have difficulty separating work and home life. The discipline of our borrowers and the positivity and happiness they maintain sets an inspiring example for me, and I genuinely hope to achieve their work ethic one day!

As I think about my plans for the evening, the weekend, or my next vacation, I for one will remember not to take my bedtime reading for granted, and to remember the hardworking women of En Via the next time I'm dreaming about a week at the beach.

 

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By Hannah Aronowitz

Photos by Jorge Solis

San Sebastián Abasolo is a small agricultural community located about 30 minutes east of Oaxaca that I have had the pleasure of getting to know since I began volunteering with En Via three weeks ago. You arrive there by following a dirt road out of Tlacochahuaya, passing through fields of garlic, alfalfa and chile de agua (water chilis) along the way.  Abasolo, with about 2,000 inhabitants, is a sweet, sleepy town centered around the church, with an elementary school, one paved road and houses made from adobe, cement and brick.

Normally, I travel to Abasolo bringing tour groups to meet the women whom receive our loans, or to attend a business class. Strictly business. This Sunday, however, this sleepy town was pure fiesta, as the entire community celebrated the day of their patron Saint Sebastián. Festivities occurred throughout the week but climaxed on Sunday with a very special mass and a traditional indigenous dance followed by feasting, music and dancing.

The danza de las plumas, or “feather dance,” is a performance piece unique to this area that has roots in pre-Colombus indigenous culture. Young men bedecked in bold yellow, red and green sequined costumes support huge feathered disks upon their heads while they dance, stomp and shake rattles in the courtyard outside the church.

While it probably originated as an Aztec ritual dance to communicate with their gods for rain, sun and corn, now the dancing depicts the Spanish conquest, and heralds the survival of indigenous people and their culture. A local band with an impressive brass section, including a thundering tuba, as well as drums, flutes and clarinets, accompanied the dancing.  

Everything was red and yellow; the tent under which we danced, the streamers adorning the church and the roses in little pots that all the women receive as a memento. Upon arriving to the party, I was ushered in to sit with a group of grandmothers, all with incredibly beautiful brown faces deeply creased with lines and eyes shining with amicable curiosity. They were all so proud to share their traditions with me, the only gringa in the town.

A couple of men wandered around pushing Coronas on anyone with an empty hand, or offering micheladas (beer with salt, lime and chili) and mezcal (the local drink made from the maguey agave cactus).

Young girls bearing delicious bowls of beef bone soup and simple tacos made the rounds to feed the masses and then just as quickly cleared the tables so the space could be used for dancing. The banda (brass band) played into the night and the dancing continued, couples, old and young moved around the floor in small circles or in simple line dances.

One family in the community is tasked with throwing the big party to hire their patron saint. They must hire a banda, cook the food and provide the beverages. The party costs about $35,000 pesos, or about $3000 USD, which is a huge cost for one family to shoulder, but a huge point of pride as well.

When darkness fell and I had to return to Oaxaca City, I left the party, which was showing no signs of stopping. I caught a three-wheeled moto-taxi back to the highway and during the ride the driver, Santiago and I got to chatting and he mentioned that his wife wants to start up a little shop in their home but didn’t have the capital. I told him about En Via and he animatedly took down my contact information for her. I left feeling more connecting to a community that I will be working with over the next three months and excited to have to chance to help women, like Santiago’s wife, grow their businesses, support their families and strengthen their communities, one loan at a time.

 

 

 

Hard work and Heart’s Desires: New Year’s at Las Cuevitas.

By Kim Groves.

The year 2012 was a wonderful year of growth and success for the women of En Vía. Many have seen real changes for the better in their businesses and positive effects on their families.

Elodia, from the town of Tlacochahuaya, is proud to reflect on what has happened these last 12 months. “I have fixed my kitchen this year, and built my new oven, and have money to invest in my tortilla business for the New Year.” Perla, also from Tlacochayuaha, reports that “in 2012 I opened my business; my own beauty salon.” She is also thankful for the good fortune her family has had, acknowledging that “my little daughter has been healthy.” Garlic seller Lucila in Abasolo reports that due to the loans this year she has been able to buy her produce up-front instead of on credit from the producers. “I feel more powerful when I go to market with my garlic, because I know it belongs to me outright”.

All the women in the program are looking ahead to an even better year in 2013, and you can be sure that they have big plans. After a year recovering from health complications, Angela, in the town of Teotitlán, is excited to be using her new loan to start reinvesting in her artisan business in 2013. Anabel in the town of Diaz Ordáz is saving for a special refrigerated display for her cakes that she bakes and sells. “Maybe if I put aside enough I can use my savings along with a loan to buy it in 2013.”

In Teotitlán a very special tradition exists to mark this idea of looking ahead and asking for a better year. On the 1^st and 2^nd of January the people of the town make their way up to a place at the foot of the hills; a place called Las Cuevitas, or little caves. You might call it a cave, or a grotto, that has seemingly been carved from the water that now trickles slowly from the mountain. Here it is said that a Virgin appeared, and was named La Virgin de la Natividad and became one of the most revered in the local church.

 

I had never been there before, but soon I started seeing familiar faces. Sara and her sisters Sofia and Ludivina were making memelas on a big comal and smiling out at us from amongst their neighbours. We were suddenly gifted freshly made tamales with yellow mole by someone passing by. It was a real party of sorts! On the path, Carlos and I stopped to be embraced and were wished a happy new year by   by a handful of women and their families.

 

We stood for a moment by a small ojito, or eye of water, that seemed to spring from the very rock at our feet. “At midnight”, Eugenia said looking down, “the edges of the water are said to shine with their own light”. I could only stare in astonishment and delight.

 “People come here to this place to ask the Virgin for many things”, another firend, Josefina, told us as we made our way carefully down the incline. “Some ask for success in business, some ask for new houses. Some couples who can’t conceive come and ask for children”.

At the base of the cave, men and women stood with their hands out, tenderly taking hold of the old outcrop of stone. I saw lips move and heads bow as they asked their heart’s quiet desires. Around them, tucked into the crevices of the rock, I noticed curious objects. Little plastic animals and people, toy cars, paper money bills, ribbons, candles, crosses; all symbols of the new years’ wishes.

The air was buzzing with the sound of it; there were so many different wishes, and prayers and hopes for the future that were flying out around that little pocket. Small fires gave welcome warmth to the hillside as the sun retreated further and further back into the long valley.  Above my head bright sparks exploded haphazardly, and I had to jump over quite a number of firecrackers that had been tucked into the cracks in the rocks underfoot by little boys.

On the slopes around the caves, piles of rocks and sticks had been gathered up, and whole families sat beside them talking and eating. Taking a closer look at the stones, you would find that they were actually little houses, constructed with the intention of building up a physical representation of the things that are important; a roof overhead and a safe place for family. Little pebbles were placed about them, in the form of wishes for sheep or a new donkey, or perhaps a strong corn crop. Similarly, by the banks of the stream people had drawn figures in the sand. With my own little stone I knelt and carefully added another.

Las Cuevitas is indeed a place of miracles. Even if you do not believe in the appearance of Virgins, or in the granting of prayers, it is impossible not to feel the tangible energy that comes from the gathering of family and friends to reflect on a year spent and give hope to a new start. Perhaps there is real magic in the sincere visualization of aspirations for the New Year, as well as the true commitment to both hard work and faith, that the people in communities like Teotitlán carry with them every single day of the year. 

Christmas Dinner with the Families of En Vía.

By Kathryn Boelk

Christmas is on our minds; especially that glorious Christmas dinner, which inevitably becomes something of an all-day event for those who celebrate Christmas in the United States. As I fantasize about my family’s traditional dishes, like prime rib and shrimp bisque soup, I also wonder if the women of En Vía will be celebrating this holiday and what it will look like for them and their families.

While Christian holiday traditions certainly exist in various indigenous towns throughout Oaxaca, Christmas is not universally celebrated. Though many families that we know within the program recognize Christmas, they do so with a beautiful variety of traditions distinct to their own cultures, lifestyles, and families.

On a recent tour to Teotitlán, one of our borrowers, Guadalupe, shared some of the traditions that her family takes part in on Christmas, but also noted some differences. She explained, for example, that “Santa Claus does not come to Teotitlán.” That is, gift giving is not a common Christmas practice in Oaxaca. Instead, families gather to “receive” Christmas on the night of the 24^th, something which often entails wishing one another good luck and good health as well as sharing a meal.

Tamales for Christmas dinner!

Gloria, whose business is making tamales and assorted desserts to sell in Teotitlán’s market, tells us that the Christmas season is indeed a very busy one for her. She has many more customers buying tamales at this time of year, particularly on Christmas Eve and throughout the final weeks of December for the posadas (a tradition in which neighbors gather to reenact Mary and Joseph’s search for safe lodging before the birth of Jesus). Gloria says that in Teotitlán, on Christmas Eve, many people attend a late-night Mass in the town’s church at around 10:30 pm and afterwards eat a dinner at home with their families.

Gloria prepares tamales for sale over the Holidays.

 

In the town of Tlacochahuaya, we spoke with Maria Luisa and her husband, who told us that their favorite Christmas dinner dish is guajolote. This variety of turkey apparently has a very distinct and savory flavor, such that even when it is cooked plain, it tastes as if it has already been seasoned. It is considered something of a treat to eat guajolote and apart from Christmas, the animal is often given as a gift at weddings. The guajolote has tough meat though, so it must be cooked for a long time in an oven (above or below ground) or as a soup.

Guajolote turkey for dinner! 

Maria Luisa says that she and her family often eat chickens that they raise as well. She proceeded to tell us the story of the last chicken they had raised from a little chick especially for dinner. Despite themselves the family grew rather attached to this particular chicken (they even gave it a name!) And come time to prepare for the meal, they couldn’t bring themselves to do it. I think they ate a vegetarian meal that year!

It has been a joy to learn about and even partake in a few different Christmas traditions outside of my own. From all of us in En Vía, we wish each of you, our friends, a very happy holiday! Oh, and buen provecho!  

 

 

School's out for the Holidays!

By Heather Hutcheson

 

Volunteer English teacher Heather reflects on her classes in the town of Tlacochahuaya as lessons come to an end for the holidays, and she says goodbye for now to her wonderful little students. We know the kids will miss coming to class during the break and will also be missing their teacher Heather until her return!

Volunteer teachers Heather, Alexis, Kathryn and Tony with their students.

 

Teaching with En Vía is a priceless experience and one unmatched by other volunteer opportunities. You might think it is hard work, getting children to fall in love with English, but they are ready to learn and can pick up a list of twenty-five new sentences and know half of them in fewer than two hours.  As a group, they now know hundreds of nouns and have the confidence to try out writing and speaking their own sentences in English.

One student, Kevin, writes: “Soccer is beautiful, and basketball is ugly.” And when we were practicing “to be” verbs, Jennifer and Mariel, twins, were delighted to see and understand a sentence that read: They are twins.

 

Getting to know more about all of the students is one of the most rewarding elements of this job.  I know that they love to draw and especially enjoy using markers, and so we did many activities that involved drawing words. I also have learned they all like to play on the swings before class, and even the smallest girl, Magdalena, will fight for the green swing because it is the highest.  The boys, without exception, draw hearts in their notebooks as often as the girls draw flowers.  And of course, certain kids don’t like to share with certain others because of broken hearts and more minor infractions.  Plus, certain people better not sit next to others because it disturbs the order of things.

 

Elizabeth likes to draw and eat fruit, but she doesn’t like melon, especially cantaloupe.  Most of the students said their favorite food was soup: noodle and alphabet.  And spinach, hamburger, and eggs Mexican style were among the foods that they don’t like to eat.

When Jennifer had a chance to write two sentences about things she dislikes, she took aim at the colors green and pink; she also dislikes soccer and kickball.  Ulises, one of the younger members of our class, joined the team that dislikes kickball, spinach, and pineapple.  Although he dislikes going to the doctor’s office, he aspires to be one in the future and so does Gabriel, Jennifer, and Narda.

 

Ulises and Gabriel like to go to the city, but they do not like to go shopping.  Elizabeth wants to go to Cañada, a region of Oaxaca.  Narda enjoys seeing movies and Abigail, who wants to be a police officer, wants to go to Huatulco.  She was surprised to learn that city names, like Oaxaca and Huatulco, are the same in Spanish and English.

They’re growing up together, and they’re learning together in and outside of school. They all have big dreams for the future.  Nearly half of the class wants to be doctors.  Others want to be small business owners, or police officers, and there’s even a future racecar driver!

Every minute we had together, we spent learning and laughing and enjoying one another.  In January they will meet another volunteer and another door to the language will be opened to them, and they, without hesitation, will settle right in.

Walking the Walk: Volunteers and the Adoptive City of Oaxaca.

By Kathryn Boelk

 As a new volunteer to En Vía, I have had the opportunity to meet not only the inspirational and determined women who participate in the program as borrowers, but also the spirited volunteers who support the program and all that its operation entails. Though we all come from a variety of hometowns and life experiences, we all share Oaxaca as our adoptive city and are greatly appreciative of the opportunities it has afforded us. Today, I’d like to share some of what we have discovered and enjoy about Oaxaca.

The markets are one aspect of Oaxaca that Kirsten enjoys in particular. Her favorite market is held on Sundays in Tlacolula, a town in the valley outside of Oaxaca city. On a given Sunday, Kirsten likes to go out to breakfast in Tlacolula and wander around the market. You can spend an entire day in the market, buying snacks and drinks here and there. She enjoys seeing the great variety of goods sold by local vendors and finding new things to barter for (although, truth be told, she prefers not to have to barter).

Volunteer Kirsten enjoys breakfast at the market

 

Kirsten says that her experience volunteering with En Vía has given her a behind-the-scenes understanding of entrepreneurship in Oaxaca, an appreciation that she could only develop from talking directly to women who own their own businesses and work with En Vía. Every bag of beans sold at the market takes on new meaning when you realize that it requires an entire day to clean them. She can tell if a woman grew the garlic she is selling or if she bought it from a grower in Puebla, depending on its size. She has learned where these products come from and the tremendous work it requires to get them to market.

Kim enjoys photography and wandering the city with her camera in hand. She loves to sit on the steps in front of Santo Domingo, or perhaps on a terrace above the street at sunset, and watch the tourists, families, and friends interacting around her. There are frequently comparsas (parades with music and dance) and other impromptu performances and gatherings to take part in, or to simply observe. She likes people watching and appreciates that so much of life in Oaxaca is lived outside, such that she can easily be an active participant or an observer who looks from the outside in.

Santo Domingo church in setting sun.

Samantha has a bicycle that she likes to make use of here in Oaxaca. She says it is a much more efficient means of transportation for running errands in the city. She also likes to ride her bike to villages just outside of Oaxaca. The longest trip she has made was to the town of Tlacochahuaya, a town in which En Vía works, that took three or four hours each way.

Sam also described how she enjoys spending her Sundays in Oaxaca. After eating dinner at her favorite restaurant, she walks around downtown toward the Zócalo. There, she often sits and orders something to drink, taking time to relax and simply enjoy the presence of others. She likes that not only tourists, but also Oaxacans and their families take walks throughout the city. She pauses to take everything in, appreciating the space and the relationships shared within it.

Armando is also a fan of the markets in Oaxaca. On Sundays, he frequents one market in particular where a woman sells empanadas amarillas. Other than the markets, Armando also enjoys walking around the city – and not only the historic center of Oaxaca. He likes having errands that take him to different neighborhoods, giving him a chance to walk around the entire city and listen to music. His iPod frequently accompanies him on his walks, playing electronic music.

Market scene. 

Throughout these conversations, a theme becames apparent to me: we really like walks!

While writing this post, I found myself wanting to substitute the word “walk” with one of the five different verbs and phrases I use in Spanish to express the same action; because the process seems so much more dynamic in Spanish, perhaps because it plays a greater role in daily life here.

I also found it difficult to explain how comforting, yet invigorating, the simple act of walking has been. Some of my best conversations – and subsequent learning moments – originated from walks down Alcalá towards the Zócalo on one of the pedestrian-only streets, picking up pastries, gelato, or elotes along the way with friends.

After realizing how personally significant this process of mobile reflection and decompression has been for me, the unfortunate lack of public spaces reserved for pedestrians in the United States has become increasingly apparent. Both my eating and walking privileges in Oaxaca have spoiled me, and I am certain that I will desperately miss them when I finally return home.

Walking in calle Alcalá.  

Piggy Banks and Mattresses - It's time for a savings workshop!

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By Charlotte Newman

A few weeks ago we held a special savings workshop for the women borrowers in Teotitlán. Saving is a topic that we discuss in the business classes which make up an important part of the loan process. The additional workshop offered a space to focus more on the issue and provide another tool for the borrowers on how to best manage their money. Some of the women say they are able to save, while others express that they find it difficult to regularly put away money that can immediately be used for day to day expenses and necessities.

Very few people in the town trust banks. This may seem strange tomost of us, who have never had any cause to doubt that our bank would safely guard our money until the moment in which we choose to withdraw it. However, in Teotitlán they have a reason to be suspicious. Not too long ago, many families put their savings into an informal savings service, with the same confidence that we have depositing into our banks. This “bank” promised to protect the money of the townspeople. Then, one day, it disappeared. Many families lost years of savings that will never be recovered.

Understandably, the people of the town now prefer to keep their savings under mattresses or in some hidden nook in their homes. Of course this method is not completely secure either—I once had a woman in business class who told me that a friend of hers had put her savings in a coconut and buried it under a tree. Seems pretty safe, right? Well, she left it there for several months, and it happened to be a particularly rainy year. Sadly, when she went to dig up her coconut savings, the rains had moved the dirt and the coconut was nowhere to be found.

With these important concerns in mind, En Vía organized a workshop to present a new and safer savings option to the women and to encourage them to put their trust in a chosen formal financial institution. They could benefit from having their savings safely guarded and from avoiding the temptation to spend the money hidden in their houses. Once we had discussed the idea with them and dispelled a lot of the existing mistrust around banking, (“how much will they take out of our deposit? Are you sure they won’t take money out of our accounts?”) the women began to see that it could be a really good opportunity. They couldn’t believe that they would actually be paid interest on their deposits in a bank. There was genuine enthusiasm about opening accounts.

The workshop was a success in presenting new and safer options for saving with formal institutions, and many of the women have since opened accounts. The fact that they trust the bank to guard their money means that they now have a safe place to deposit their savings. As more women have good experiences with the bank, they will tell their families and friends, which will hopefully encourage others to begin trusting banks again as well. These women are intelligent and they recognize the benefits of formalized savings, even as they are wary not to be taken advantage of again. I have confidence that they will use this new tool as best they can and that we will be amazed, as always, at the things they can do with their strong motivation when given the access to fair services. 

Day of the Dead in Oaxaca

By Kim Groves

Firecrackers from the churchyard hurtle over-head with the intention of scaring away evil spirits while ghosts, ghouls, and devils dance in the streets. The Cathedral is piled high with flowers. Candles burn bright for every prayer and memory of loved ones. Skeletons dangle candidly from second storey windows, and tiny yellow petals are crushed underfoot.

Somewhat ironically, the week of the Day of the Dead is one of the liveliest times in Oaxaca. As a tradition and a festival, it is a favourite for locals and visitors alike. Colourful and vibrant, sombre and sweet; you will find the atmosphere to be unlike any you have ever experienced.

With the belief that the spirits of the deceased return to the living world on the day of the 31st of October and the 1st of November, Oaxaca is completely transformed in anticipation and reception.

 

From the intimate moments spent gathering and talking by gravesides, or around family altars, to the boisterous parades accompanied by music and mezcal, the people of Oaxaca take this opportunity to embrace all that is life, including the acknowledgement of its end.

It is a time to eat. Giant sweet bread loaves spilled over counters, ready to be dipped in steaming hot chocolate or mole. It is a time to be out on the streets. Dance and theatre performances, art and music appeared in every plaza and corner. It is a time for family and friends. Get into the spirit, invite around everyone you know, and then some, greet neighbours, and embrace your community.  Most importantly, at this time especially, remember that life is to be shared. 

The Power of "We" is Greater than the Power of "Me".

By Kirsten Leikem

 

 

The En Vía community is a reflection of the larger community that exists in the towns we work in. After observing, listening, and conversing with the women of En Vía I realize that tour fees and loans are not the only virtuous circle that exists. A virtuous circle of relationships is also evident between the staff, volunteers, visitors, and women of En Vía.The women in the program have taught me what community really means. When I visit the women, I see a life of reciprocity and solidarity; A life where the power of we is greater than the power of me.

 As part of my University trip to Oaxaca in January of 2012, I went on my first tour with En Vía. I remember how I hesitantly stepped over the thresholds to enter the homes of the female loan beneficiaries. It was if I had found a secret passageway; it dawned upon me that I was privy to a world rarely seen by tourists. The natural healer who shared her methods with us fascinated me. The proud owner of a flour tortilla business was a single-mother that inspired me beyond words. I never imagined that in 7 months, I would be the tour guide leading visitors to the welcoming hearths of the amazing women of En Via. 

Volunteers Kirsten and Kim on an En Via tour.

 

Values of Reciprocity

Every visit has taught me something valuble, but I would like to share a few special stories. These women exemplify the values of reciprocity and show what it means to be a community.

Elvira

On one of my first tours to Teotitlán, I met Elvira. At age 22, Elvira owns her own tapete (rug) business and is a single-mom to her beautiful daughter. With her contagious smile and laugh, Elvira answered questions and explained how the loans have helped her create her own inventory and boost her business. Elvira’s daughter observed us while clutching her baby doll. The clean crisp rugs with unique designs and creative color combinations made Elvira stand out; she is clearly an expert. Elvira puts much time, thought, and energy into her tapetes and her pride in her work creates a palpable excitement that engages others and spurs action. Elvira motivated me that day, and I am sure she has made her daughter and other people in her community feel that they are capable of achieving their goals. 

Elvira at her loom.

Sofia

However, such expertise is not solely earned, it is learned. This fact is manifest in the strong traditions that are carried throughout generations. Elvira learned to weave from her father. Another woman in the town, Sofia, learned how to mold and create velas (candles) from her grandmother. Sofia was the only one, of over 20 grandchildren, who took an interest in the craft; She is not working only for herself, but is honoring the work and utilizing the values that were taught to her by previous generations.

Sofia with the wax she uses to make her candles.

Estela

Within the communities whole families are working together. Arriving at Estela’s home, the first thing one notices is the amazing view of tranquil blue mountains and green valleys. Then you meet Estela and her family and forget all about the view. In a room full of colorful tapetes, Estela and her husband Carlos tell the group about how they have been gradually expanding their business and making improvements to their home. Their children, Lucy and Carlitos are proud to show us how they help thier parents with the preparation of the wool every day after school. It is obvious that family and friends do not have to think twice before offering a helping hand; because when the time comes they know their help will be reciprocated.

Estela and her family.

 

Part of Something Greater

The greatest gifts are intangible. By visiting the women of En Vía I have learned what it means to be a community. We are part of something greater when we are there for our neighbors, friends, and family. And we thank you, our friends and supporters for being part of the greater En Via community that we value so much. 

A group of visitors with Estela and family. 

 

 

Learning about Culture: En Vía Enjoys a Celebration in Teotitlán.

 

Text and Photos by Heather Hutcheson

Most people know Teotitlán del Valle as a place to buy colorful wool rugs and as a place to learn about weaving as an art form, but there is much more to know about the rich and important cultural traditions in this Zapotec region of Oaxaca. Recently a group of En Vía volunteers had a great chance to experience some of these traditions for themselves.

Like most of the pueblos surrounding Oaxaca, Teotitlán has a governing structure where administrative duties are performed by citizens as a type of voluntary community service, including serving as leader of the pueblo and as part of a sort of civil mentoring force.  We saw some of the “officers” during the fiesta; a local explained that their role is to correct people if they are acting badly.  People also volunteer to ring the church bells, to bring fresh flowers and candles for the church, etc.  It is an honor for community members to serve in any way, including landscaping and cleaning.

 

Teotitlán has a museum called Balaa Xtee Guech Gulal (a Zapotec phrase that means "in the shadow of the old village"). The museum features three main areas, one dedicated to the pueblo’s archaeology, one to crafts, and one to weddings and traditions associated with weddings (including the concept of Guelaguetza).  Guelaguetza (in addition to being one of the largest exhibitions of folkloric dance in July) is a way of keeping a record of who brought what to a fiesta.  For example, at my wedding I will ask those who can to bring specific items: a cake, flowers, napkins.  I will reciprocate at future events.  This is how the people share their blessings and contribute to the communal celebration. 

Teotitlán del Valle has several annual fiestas propias (celebrations that are their own). October 7, the first Sunday in October, is the Fiesta for Saint Rosaria.  Held at the Preciosa Sangre de Cristo Church, the event was a stunning display of the dancing talents of the young men who commit three years of their lives, and more, to the dance of the Danza de la Pluma.

 A man sitting next to our group of English teaching volunteers said the fiesta was scheduled to start around four, but he suggested the rehearsals and preparations were equally riveting; he was right. We could tell by the costumes (children in military uniforms, waving Spanish flags and plume dancers in their Zapotec dress) that we were seeing some sort of a re-enactment. There was also a man in a black mask; we learned he depicts a spirit that protects the Zapotec soldiers/dancers. This re-enactment demonstrates how the Zapotecs united with the Spaniards to defeat the Aztecs from Tenochtitlan.

As a slight breeze picked up, we could see that the headdresses the men wear are not only ornate and large, but they are also quite heavy. One even had to hold on to the plumes as he continued spiralling around the others.

 

As we were heading out, just after six o clock, this joyous commemoration and celebration was amplifying. After assessing the fruit, beer, and soft drinks the community members had brought to share, some of the elders began pouring mezcal.

Sincerely grateful for the opportunity to learn from the kind people of Teotitlan, we headed back to Oaxaca Centro.